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No, it is not a scam

"We try to live for today and hope for tomorrow. You can’t dwell on the negative possibilities or you will forever be depressed. I few prayers occasionally help too."
- R Quinn
Read more »

Sector Fund by Stealth

I'VE RECENTLY MADE the most significant change to my own portfolio in thirty five years. For the first time I've moved away from pure market-cap investing, tilting meaningfully toward Europe and Southeast Asia and bringing my US technology concentration down to around fifteen percent. I'm retired. I don't need to chase the outperformance that concentration might deliver, and I don't need the potential volatility that comes with it. This is a personal position rather than any kind of recommendation; it's nothing more than a risk management decision made at a point in life where I simply don't need the risk. What prompted it was a growing discomfort with something I suspect many everyday investors haven't fully reckoned with: the S&P 500 is no longer quite the animal it once was. A broad market index fund casts a wide net across the economy, and the S&P 500, which tracks the 500 largest US businesses by market value, has long been held up as the sensible default: low cost, well diversified, a bet on the whole rather than any one part of it. A sector fund works differently; it makes a deliberate, concentrated bet on a specific industry. If you believe technology is going to outperform the market as a whole, it gives you the ability to concentrate your capital into exactly the sector your research or gut instinct suspects is going to be the place to be and let it run. The theory behind each is straightforward enough. A broad market fund captures a larger slice of the investment universe and is generally considered the lower-risk path. A sector fund comes with a well-understood trade-off: higher potential returns in good times, sharper drawdowns when sentiment turns. Investors who consciously choose a technology sector fund know what they're signing up for. The risk profile is understood, accepted, and priced into the decision. The problem is that the line between these two things has become a bit fuzzy, and most everyday investors haven't noticed. A handful of technology and technology-related companies (Apple, Microsoft, Nvidia, Amazon, Meta, Alphabet) have grown so dominant in their market valuations that they now represent a disproportionate share of the entire index. During the last year, the top ten holdings have accounted for roughly a third of the total weight of all 500 companies. The mechanism behind this is simply how the index works. The S&P 500 is market-cap weighted, meaning the bigger the company, the bigger its slice of the pie. As technology companies scaled their dominance through the 2010s and into the 2020s, their weight within the index ballooned accordingly. The index didn't change its rules; the market just rewarded one particular group of companies so heavily that they came to dominate the scoreboard. This means the investor who bought the S&P 500 believing they were spreading risk broadly across the American economy (energy, healthcare, financials, industrials, consumer staples) owns something that looks quite different to the story they were sold. You buy five hundred companies and a third of your money lands in ten stocks, most of them operating in the same broad technological ecosystem. That is a concentration risk, whether it is labelled as one or not. It's a sector fund “light”, acquired by stealth through the natural mechanics of market-cap weighting. The issue is that millions of everyday investors are carrying a version of that same risk without necessarily knowing it. Although I've used the S&P 500 as an example here, it isn't alone. Most broad-based indexes including developed world trackers will exhibit the same characteristics to varying degrees, because the same companies sit near the top of those indexes too. The MSCI World, often marketed as the global diversifier, allocates somewhere in the region of seventy percent to US equities, and within that, the familiar names reappear. You can cross borders on paper without ever really leaving the room. None of this is an argument against the S&P 500. The concentration reflects real, earned dominance; these companies grew to the top of the index because they genuinely deserved to. And whether my reallocation turns out to be the right call is genuinely unknowable. The concentrated index could continue to outperform for another decade and I'll have left returns on the table, a real possibility I've made my peace with. The point isn't that I've found the correct answer. The point is that I had the information to make a considered choice, weighed it against my own circumstances, and acted accordingly. That's all any investor can do. The uncomfortable truth is that a great many people haven't been given the chance to do the same. They're holding a product that has quietly changed its character, and nobody has thought to mention it. Better information doesn't guarantee better decisions, but it at least puts the decision where it belongs: with the person whose money it is. ___ Mark Crothers is a retired small business owner from the UK with a keen interest in personal finance and simple living. Married to his high school sweetheart, with daughters and grandchildren, he knows the importance of building a secure financial future. With an aversion to social media, he prefers to spend his time on his main passions: reading, scratch cooking, racket sports, and hiking.
Read more »

Retirement Plan

"Agree with others. I did not get very far into the video. But the message about time is spot on."
- Jerry Pinkard
Read more »

Trump Accounts – An Update

"Gotcha. I misunderstood what it was. I thought he left some lump sum with instructions to have it grow to be used in 200 years (or something like that)."
- Ben Rodriguez
Read more »

Allan Roth’s 2/13/26 article references Jonathan Clements

"Being nomadic has really curtailed the spending on physical possessions. There’s a real limit on what you can/will carry, and you can’t ship it home if there’s no home to ship it to.  My wife bought some handmade earrings last year for about $10. I bought a sweater, and I may buy a T-shirt from McGing’s pub before we move on, even though I’m carrying more than I really need. No worries, some will be donated soon enough. "
- Michael1
Read more »

Buffett’s 90/10 is Wrong. Even Though it’s Right.

"Maybe the more important takeaway isn’t the allocation percentages, but that one’s portfolio need be no more complicated than an S&P 500 index funds and short term government bonds (or a fund thereof). My own is more complicated, but I still think the above is Buffett’s real lesson here."
- Michael1
Read more »

Home Tax Tips

IF YOU OWN a home or are planning to buy one, there are a few things you need to know from the tax standpoint that could save you money: 1. Mortgage Interest If you have a mortgage, you can typically deduct the interest you pay on the loan up to $750,000 ($1,000,000 if taken before December 16, 2017) but only if you itemize your deductions (schedule A) You can also deduct points you paid if you itemize. Many people miss deducting points on their tax returns when they purchase a house, but you have to meet some criteria like:
  1. The points relate to a mortgage to buy, build or improve your principal residence
  2. Points were reasonable amount charged in that area
  3. You provide funds (at or before closing) at least equal to the points charged
  4. The points clearly show on the settlement statement
In general, points to get a new mortgage or to refinance an existing mortgage are deducted ratably over the term of the loan.  Note that the deductible points not included on Form 1098 (the mortgage interest form) should be entered on Schedule A (Form 1040), Itemized Deductions, line 8c “Points not reported to you on Form 1098.” 2. Property taxes Property taxes can be deducted on your tax return if you itemize deductions. The total amount of taxes (including state and local income taxes) is capped at $40,400 for 2026. This cap is temporary and will increase by 1% annually through 2029 before reverting to $10,000 in 2030. If you make between $500k to $600k of modified adjusted gross income, the $40.4k deduction is reduced by 30% for each dollar you make. At $600k MAGI, the deduction drops to $10k, potentially raising marginal tax rates to 45.5% (!) for singles due to “SALT torpedo” if you are in the $500-600k range. If you are at that range, it’s recommended to mitigate this by lowering AGI/MAGI by maximizing pre-tax 401(k)/403(b), HSA, FSA contributions, timing RSU sales, tax loss harvesting, or deferring income/accelerating expenses for business owners. 3. Improvements Improvements are significant enhancements made to your home that increase its value. Many people overpay on taxes when they ultimately sell their house because they don’t keep track of these improvements. Here are some examples provided by the IRS: > Putting an addition on your home > Replacing an entire roof > Paving your driveway > Installing central air conditioning > Rewiring your home > Building a new deck > Kitchen upgrades > Lawn sprinkler system > New siding > Built in appliances > Fireplace Now, these costs aren’t deducted, but they are added to your home’s cost basis. This could lead to lower capital gains taxes when you sell your property (more on this later). Repairs, on the other hand, don’t impact your basis and don’t affect your taxes (e.g. repairing a broken fixture, patching cracks, etc) You will need to document every improvement, as this can help you save money on taxes. Keep your receipts and invoices (upload them to Google Drive) and record the dates and descriptions of the work done. Taxes when selling your house When you sell your house, here’s the formula: Selling price  > Selling expenses (like realtor fees) > Adjusted cost basis (how much you purchased it for + all these capital improvements I talked about above + any closing costs you paid when you acquired the home (legal fees, recording, survey, stamp taxed, title insurance) = Gain/Loss You will need to pay capital gains tax if there is a gain, but, luckily there is a gain exclusion (Section 121 exclusion) that can also help you save on taxes: 4. Gain exclusion If you sell your primary residence, you may be able to exclude up to $250,000 ($500,000 for married) of the gain from taxes if you meet some conditions. > Ownership (must have owned the home for at least 24 months within the 5 years prior to sale. For married couples only one spouse needs to meet this requirement) > Residence (you must have used the home as your main residence for at least 24 non-consecutive months during the 5 years before the sale. For married couples both spouses must meet requirements. > Look-back (you must not have claimed the exclusion on another home within the 2 years before this sale) Now, many people don’t know this but there is actually a partial exemption.  1. Work related move (i.e. you started a new job at least 50 miles farther from home) 2. Health related move (you moved to obtain, provide, or facilitate care for yourself or a family member) 3. Unforeseeable events (casualty, divorce, death, financial difficulty) 4. Special circumstances So, instead of claiming the full exclusion, you can exclude a prorated portion of the $250,000/$500,000 limit based on how long you owned and lived in the home. By the way, you can rent out a home for 2 years and still qualify for the exemption, as long as you lived there for the required period before selling (many people do this). 5. Tax example selling a home You bought a home for $200,000 (including all other costs) in 2018. You built a new deck, new roof and siding totaling $50,000. You now sold your home for $500,000. You are single. Selling costs are $20,000 (agent fees, etc) Sale price: $500,000 -$20,000 of selling costs (200,000 + 50,000) = -$250,000 (adjusted basis) Total Gain = 230,000 Exclusion = $250,000. Total taxes paid = $0. But what if you didn’t keep track of all your renovation costs like new siding or a deck? You would’ve had to pay taxes on $20,000 of capital gains!  Overall, knowing how these things work can literally save you thousands in taxes. Do you have any tips with homeownership? Share some in the comments!   Bogdan Sheremeta is a licensed CPA based in Illinois with experience at Deloitte and a Fortune 200 multinational.
Read more »

What is the best way to donate to charity in 2026?

"I've started to use direct gifts of securities to my alma maters, and will continue to do so. I've taken to gifting blocks of shares that have the lowest basis while getting the market value as my deduction. This helps bring incremental tax efficiency to my portfolio and doesn't require me to build any new "structure" for giving. Simple and effective. But the ratcheting down of the value of deductions for charitable contributions based on income can add a new calculation chore. For example, my state phases deductions out and I have seen that the Federal government will start to do that for 2026 for certain higher income taxpayers."
- Martin McCue
Read more »

Volatility is your Best Friend

"Volatility is one way active market players can make money with a degree of confidence. Some good companies that are volatile still have fairly recognizable peaks and troughs. And people who track these companies can do really well over time if they buy during known troughs, and sell during peaks, as long as they don't get too greedy. While markets shocks can interfere, slow and steady in stable markets can pay off when one takes profits in smaller bites."
- Martin McCue
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Forget the 4% rule.

"My RMD, combined with Social Security and a small pension, is more than I need to live on, and the monthly SEP distributions to me seem better than any annuity I can imagine. I am unlikely to ever withdraw more than my RMD (or less). And despite the surplus I have each month, I don't have much interest in increasing my consumption spending at all (though I've noticed I am gifting a bit more.) The RMD process did, however, help me to sort out what I should be doing with my investment choices and to simplify."
- Martin McCue
Read more »

Loose Change

"I always found the multiple European currencies very exotic. It was a bit disappointing when they amalgamated into the Euro, but I suppose it makes things simpler when traveling between countries."
- Mark Crothers
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Tax Smart Retirement

A POPULAR JOKE about retirement is that it can be hard work. That’s because financial planning is like a jigsaw puzzle, and retirement often means rearranging the pieces. In the past, I’ve discussed two key pieces of that puzzle: how to determine a sustainable portfolio withdrawal rate and how to decide on an effective asset allocation. But there’s one more piece of the puzzle to contend with: taxes. Especially if you’re planning to retire on the earlier side, it’s important to have a tax plan. When it comes to tax planning for retirement, there’s one key principle I see as most important, and that’s the idea that in retirement, the goal is to minimize your total lifetime tax bill. That’s important because a fundamental shift occurs the day that retirement arrives: In contrast to our working years, when taxes are, to a large degree, out of our control, in retirement, taxes are much more within our control. By choosing which investments to sell and which accounts to withdraw from, retirees have the ability to dial their income—and thus their tax rate—up or down in any given year. The challenge, though, is that tax planning can be like the game Whac-A-Mole. Choose a low-tax strategy in one year, and that might cause taxes to run higher in a future year. That’s why—dull as the topic might seem—careful tax planning is important. To get started, I recommend this three-part formula: Step 1 The first step is to arrange your assets for tax-efficiency. This is often referred to as “asset location.” Here’s an example: Suppose you’ve decided on an asset allocation of 60% stocks and 40% bonds. That might be a sensible mix, but that doesn't mean every one of your accounts needs to be invested according to that same 60/40 mix. Instead, to help manage the growth of your pre-tax accounts, and thus the size of future required minimum distributions, pre-tax accounts should be invested as conservatively as possible. On the other hand, if you have Roth assets, you’d want those invested as aggressively as possible. Your taxable assets might carry an allocation that’s somewhere in between. If you can make this change without incurring a tax bill, it’s something I’d do even before you enter retirement. Step 2 How can you avoid the Whac-A-Mole problem referenced above? If you’re approaching retirement, a key goal is to target a specific tax bracket. Then structure things so your taxable income falls into that same bracket more or less every year. By smoothing out your income in this way from year to year, the goal is to avoid ever falling into a very high tax bracket. To determine what tax rate to target, I suggest this process: Look ahead to a year in your late-70s, when your income will include both Social Security and required minimum distributions from your pre-tax retirement accounts. Estimate what your income might be in that future year and see what marginal tax bracket that income would translate to. In doing this exercise, don’t forget other potential income sources. That might include part-time work, a pension, an annuity or a rental property. And if you have significant taxable investment accounts, be sure to include interest from bonds. Then, for simplicity, subtract the standard deduction to estimate your future taxable income. Suppose that totaled up to $175,000. Using this year’s tax brackets, that would put your income in either the 24% marginal bracket (for single taxpayers) or 22% (married filing jointly). You would then use this as your target tax bracket. Step 3 With your target tax bracket in hand, the next step would be to make an income plan for each year. The idea here is to identify which accounts you’ll withdraw from to meet your household spending needs while also adhering to your target tax bracket. This isn’t something you’d map out more than one year in advance. Instead, it’s an exercise you’d repeat at the beginning of each year, using that year’s numbers. What might this look like in practice? Suppose you’re age 65, retired and not yet collecting Social Security. In this case, your income—and thus your tax bracket—might be quite low. To get started, you’d want to withdraw enough from your tax-deferred accounts to meet your spending needs but without exceeding your target tax bracket. This would then bring you to a decision. If you’ve taken enough out of your tax-deferred accounts to meet your spending needs and still haven’t hit your target tax rate, then the next step would be to distribute an additional amount from your pre-tax accounts. But with this additional amount, you’d complete a Roth conversion, moving those dollars into a Roth IRA to grow tax-free from that point forward. How much should you convert? The answer here involves a little bit of judgment but is mostly straightforward: You’d convert just enough to bring your marginal tax bracket up into the target range. Some people prefer to go all the way to the top of their target bracket, while others prefer to back off a bit. The most important thing is just to get into the right neighborhood. What if, on the other hand, you’ve taken enough from your pre-tax accounts to reach your target tax rate, but that still isn’t enough to meet your spending needs? In that case, you wouldn’t take any more from your pre-tax accounts, and you wouldn’t complete any Roth conversions. Instead, you’d turn to your taxable accounts, where the applicable tax brackets will almost certainly be lower. Capital gains brackets currently top out at just 20%. Thus, for the remainder of your spending needs, the most tax-efficient source of funds will be your taxable account. What if you aren’t yet age 59½? Would that upend a plan like this? A common misconception is that withdrawals from pre-tax accounts entail a punitive 10% penalty. While that’s true, it isn’t always true, and there’s more than one way around it. One exception allows withdrawals from a workplace retirement plan like a 401(k) as long as you leave that employer at age 55 or later. In that case, as long as you don’t roll over the account to an IRA, you’d be free to take withdrawals without penalty. If you’re retiring before age 55, you’ll want to learn about Rule 72(t). This allows for withdrawals from pre-tax accounts at any age, as long as you agree to what the IRS refers to as substantially equal periodic payments (SEPP) from your pre-tax assets. The SEPP approach definitely carries restrictions, but if you’re pursuing early retirement, and the bulk of your assets are in pre-tax accounts, this might be just the right solution.   Adam M. Grossman is the founder of Mayport, a fixed-fee wealth management firm. Sign up for Adam's Daily Ideas email, follow him on X @AdamMGrossman and check out his earlier articles.
Read more »

No, it is not a scam

"We try to live for today and hope for tomorrow. You can’t dwell on the negative possibilities or you will forever be depressed. I few prayers occasionally help too."
- R Quinn
Read more »

Sector Fund by Stealth

I'VE RECENTLY MADE the most significant change to my own portfolio in thirty five years. For the first time I've moved away from pure market-cap investing, tilting meaningfully toward Europe and Southeast Asia and bringing my US technology concentration down to around fifteen percent. I'm retired. I don't need to chase the outperformance that concentration might deliver, and I don't need the potential volatility that comes with it. This is a personal position rather than any kind of recommendation; it's nothing more than a risk management decision made at a point in life where I simply don't need the risk. What prompted it was a growing discomfort with something I suspect many everyday investors haven't fully reckoned with: the S&P 500 is no longer quite the animal it once was. A broad market index fund casts a wide net across the economy, and the S&P 500, which tracks the 500 largest US businesses by market value, has long been held up as the sensible default: low cost, well diversified, a bet on the whole rather than any one part of it. A sector fund works differently; it makes a deliberate, concentrated bet on a specific industry. If you believe technology is going to outperform the market as a whole, it gives you the ability to concentrate your capital into exactly the sector your research or gut instinct suspects is going to be the place to be and let it run. The theory behind each is straightforward enough. A broad market fund captures a larger slice of the investment universe and is generally considered the lower-risk path. A sector fund comes with a well-understood trade-off: higher potential returns in good times, sharper drawdowns when sentiment turns. Investors who consciously choose a technology sector fund know what they're signing up for. The risk profile is understood, accepted, and priced into the decision. The problem is that the line between these two things has become a bit fuzzy, and most everyday investors haven't noticed. A handful of technology and technology-related companies (Apple, Microsoft, Nvidia, Amazon, Meta, Alphabet) have grown so dominant in their market valuations that they now represent a disproportionate share of the entire index. During the last year, the top ten holdings have accounted for roughly a third of the total weight of all 500 companies. The mechanism behind this is simply how the index works. The S&P 500 is market-cap weighted, meaning the bigger the company, the bigger its slice of the pie. As technology companies scaled their dominance through the 2010s and into the 2020s, their weight within the index ballooned accordingly. The index didn't change its rules; the market just rewarded one particular group of companies so heavily that they came to dominate the scoreboard. This means the investor who bought the S&P 500 believing they were spreading risk broadly across the American economy (energy, healthcare, financials, industrials, consumer staples) owns something that looks quite different to the story they were sold. You buy five hundred companies and a third of your money lands in ten stocks, most of them operating in the same broad technological ecosystem. That is a concentration risk, whether it is labelled as one or not. It's a sector fund “light”, acquired by stealth through the natural mechanics of market-cap weighting. The issue is that millions of everyday investors are carrying a version of that same risk without necessarily knowing it. Although I've used the S&P 500 as an example here, it isn't alone. Most broad-based indexes including developed world trackers will exhibit the same characteristics to varying degrees, because the same companies sit near the top of those indexes too. The MSCI World, often marketed as the global diversifier, allocates somewhere in the region of seventy percent to US equities, and within that, the familiar names reappear. You can cross borders on paper without ever really leaving the room. None of this is an argument against the S&P 500. The concentration reflects real, earned dominance; these companies grew to the top of the index because they genuinely deserved to. And whether my reallocation turns out to be the right call is genuinely unknowable. The concentrated index could continue to outperform for another decade and I'll have left returns on the table, a real possibility I've made my peace with. The point isn't that I've found the correct answer. The point is that I had the information to make a considered choice, weighed it against my own circumstances, and acted accordingly. That's all any investor can do. The uncomfortable truth is that a great many people haven't been given the chance to do the same. They're holding a product that has quietly changed its character, and nobody has thought to mention it. Better information doesn't guarantee better decisions, but it at least puts the decision where it belongs: with the person whose money it is. ___ Mark Crothers is a retired small business owner from the UK with a keen interest in personal finance and simple living. Married to his high school sweetheart, with daughters and grandchildren, he knows the importance of building a secure financial future. With an aversion to social media, he prefers to spend his time on his main passions: reading, scratch cooking, racket sports, and hiking.
Read more »

Retirement Plan

"Agree with others. I did not get very far into the video. But the message about time is spot on."
- Jerry Pinkard
Read more »

Trump Accounts – An Update

"Gotcha. I misunderstood what it was. I thought he left some lump sum with instructions to have it grow to be used in 200 years (or something like that)."
- Ben Rodriguez
Read more »

Allan Roth’s 2/13/26 article references Jonathan Clements

"Being nomadic has really curtailed the spending on physical possessions. There’s a real limit on what you can/will carry, and you can’t ship it home if there’s no home to ship it to.  My wife bought some handmade earrings last year for about $10. I bought a sweater, and I may buy a T-shirt from McGing’s pub before we move on, even though I’m carrying more than I really need. No worries, some will be donated soon enough. "
- Michael1
Read more »

Buffett’s 90/10 is Wrong. Even Though it’s Right.

"Maybe the more important takeaway isn’t the allocation percentages, but that one’s portfolio need be no more complicated than an S&P 500 index funds and short term government bonds (or a fund thereof). My own is more complicated, but I still think the above is Buffett’s real lesson here."
- Michael1
Read more »

Home Tax Tips

IF YOU OWN a home or are planning to buy one, there are a few things you need to know from the tax standpoint that could save you money: 1. Mortgage Interest If you have a mortgage, you can typically deduct the interest you pay on the loan up to $750,000 ($1,000,000 if taken before December 16, 2017) but only if you itemize your deductions (schedule A) You can also deduct points you paid if you itemize. Many people miss deducting points on their tax returns when they purchase a house, but you have to meet some criteria like:
  1. The points relate to a mortgage to buy, build or improve your principal residence
  2. Points were reasonable amount charged in that area
  3. You provide funds (at or before closing) at least equal to the points charged
  4. The points clearly show on the settlement statement
In general, points to get a new mortgage or to refinance an existing mortgage are deducted ratably over the term of the loan.  Note that the deductible points not included on Form 1098 (the mortgage interest form) should be entered on Schedule A (Form 1040), Itemized Deductions, line 8c “Points not reported to you on Form 1098.” 2. Property taxes Property taxes can be deducted on your tax return if you itemize deductions. The total amount of taxes (including state and local income taxes) is capped at $40,400 for 2026. This cap is temporary and will increase by 1% annually through 2029 before reverting to $10,000 in 2030. If you make between $500k to $600k of modified adjusted gross income, the $40.4k deduction is reduced by 30% for each dollar you make. At $600k MAGI, the deduction drops to $10k, potentially raising marginal tax rates to 45.5% (!) for singles due to “SALT torpedo” if you are in the $500-600k range. If you are at that range, it’s recommended to mitigate this by lowering AGI/MAGI by maximizing pre-tax 401(k)/403(b), HSA, FSA contributions, timing RSU sales, tax loss harvesting, or deferring income/accelerating expenses for business owners. 3. Improvements Improvements are significant enhancements made to your home that increase its value. Many people overpay on taxes when they ultimately sell their house because they don’t keep track of these improvements. Here are some examples provided by the IRS: > Putting an addition on your home > Replacing an entire roof > Paving your driveway > Installing central air conditioning > Rewiring your home > Building a new deck > Kitchen upgrades > Lawn sprinkler system > New siding > Built in appliances > Fireplace Now, these costs aren’t deducted, but they are added to your home’s cost basis. This could lead to lower capital gains taxes when you sell your property (more on this later). Repairs, on the other hand, don’t impact your basis and don’t affect your taxes (e.g. repairing a broken fixture, patching cracks, etc) You will need to document every improvement, as this can help you save money on taxes. Keep your receipts and invoices (upload them to Google Drive) and record the dates and descriptions of the work done. Taxes when selling your house When you sell your house, here’s the formula: Selling price  > Selling expenses (like realtor fees) > Adjusted cost basis (how much you purchased it for + all these capital improvements I talked about above + any closing costs you paid when you acquired the home (legal fees, recording, survey, stamp taxed, title insurance) = Gain/Loss You will need to pay capital gains tax if there is a gain, but, luckily there is a gain exclusion (Section 121 exclusion) that can also help you save on taxes: 4. Gain exclusion If you sell your primary residence, you may be able to exclude up to $250,000 ($500,000 for married) of the gain from taxes if you meet some conditions. > Ownership (must have owned the home for at least 24 months within the 5 years prior to sale. For married couples only one spouse needs to meet this requirement) > Residence (you must have used the home as your main residence for at least 24 non-consecutive months during the 5 years before the sale. For married couples both spouses must meet requirements. > Look-back (you must not have claimed the exclusion on another home within the 2 years before this sale) Now, many people don’t know this but there is actually a partial exemption.  1. Work related move (i.e. you started a new job at least 50 miles farther from home) 2. Health related move (you moved to obtain, provide, or facilitate care for yourself or a family member) 3. Unforeseeable events (casualty, divorce, death, financial difficulty) 4. Special circumstances So, instead of claiming the full exclusion, you can exclude a prorated portion of the $250,000/$500,000 limit based on how long you owned and lived in the home. By the way, you can rent out a home for 2 years and still qualify for the exemption, as long as you lived there for the required period before selling (many people do this). 5. Tax example selling a home You bought a home for $200,000 (including all other costs) in 2018. You built a new deck, new roof and siding totaling $50,000. You now sold your home for $500,000. You are single. Selling costs are $20,000 (agent fees, etc) Sale price: $500,000 -$20,000 of selling costs (200,000 + 50,000) = -$250,000 (adjusted basis) Total Gain = 230,000 Exclusion = $250,000. Total taxes paid = $0. But what if you didn’t keep track of all your renovation costs like new siding or a deck? You would’ve had to pay taxes on $20,000 of capital gains!  Overall, knowing how these things work can literally save you thousands in taxes. Do you have any tips with homeownership? Share some in the comments!   Bogdan Sheremeta is a licensed CPA based in Illinois with experience at Deloitte and a Fortune 200 multinational.
Read more »

What is the best way to donate to charity in 2026?

"I've started to use direct gifts of securities to my alma maters, and will continue to do so. I've taken to gifting blocks of shares that have the lowest basis while getting the market value as my deduction. This helps bring incremental tax efficiency to my portfolio and doesn't require me to build any new "structure" for giving. Simple and effective. But the ratcheting down of the value of deductions for charitable contributions based on income can add a new calculation chore. For example, my state phases deductions out and I have seen that the Federal government will start to do that for 2026 for certain higher income taxpayers."
- Martin McCue
Read more »

Tax Smart Retirement

A POPULAR JOKE about retirement is that it can be hard work. That’s because financial planning is like a jigsaw puzzle, and retirement often means rearranging the pieces. In the past, I’ve discussed two key pieces of that puzzle: how to determine a sustainable portfolio withdrawal rate and how to decide on an effective asset allocation. But there’s one more piece of the puzzle to contend with: taxes. Especially if you’re planning to retire on the earlier side, it’s important to have a tax plan. When it comes to tax planning for retirement, there’s one key principle I see as most important, and that’s the idea that in retirement, the goal is to minimize your total lifetime tax bill. That’s important because a fundamental shift occurs the day that retirement arrives: In contrast to our working years, when taxes are, to a large degree, out of our control, in retirement, taxes are much more within our control. By choosing which investments to sell and which accounts to withdraw from, retirees have the ability to dial their income—and thus their tax rate—up or down in any given year. The challenge, though, is that tax planning can be like the game Whac-A-Mole. Choose a low-tax strategy in one year, and that might cause taxes to run higher in a future year. That’s why—dull as the topic might seem—careful tax planning is important. To get started, I recommend this three-part formula: Step 1 The first step is to arrange your assets for tax-efficiency. This is often referred to as “asset location.” Here’s an example: Suppose you’ve decided on an asset allocation of 60% stocks and 40% bonds. That might be a sensible mix, but that doesn't mean every one of your accounts needs to be invested according to that same 60/40 mix. Instead, to help manage the growth of your pre-tax accounts, and thus the size of future required minimum distributions, pre-tax accounts should be invested as conservatively as possible. On the other hand, if you have Roth assets, you’d want those invested as aggressively as possible. Your taxable assets might carry an allocation that’s somewhere in between. If you can make this change without incurring a tax bill, it’s something I’d do even before you enter retirement. Step 2 How can you avoid the Whac-A-Mole problem referenced above? If you’re approaching retirement, a key goal is to target a specific tax bracket. Then structure things so your taxable income falls into that same bracket more or less every year. By smoothing out your income in this way from year to year, the goal is to avoid ever falling into a very high tax bracket. To determine what tax rate to target, I suggest this process: Look ahead to a year in your late-70s, when your income will include both Social Security and required minimum distributions from your pre-tax retirement accounts. Estimate what your income might be in that future year and see what marginal tax bracket that income would translate to. In doing this exercise, don’t forget other potential income sources. That might include part-time work, a pension, an annuity or a rental property. And if you have significant taxable investment accounts, be sure to include interest from bonds. Then, for simplicity, subtract the standard deduction to estimate your future taxable income. Suppose that totaled up to $175,000. Using this year’s tax brackets, that would put your income in either the 24% marginal bracket (for single taxpayers) or 22% (married filing jointly). You would then use this as your target tax bracket. Step 3 With your target tax bracket in hand, the next step would be to make an income plan for each year. The idea here is to identify which accounts you’ll withdraw from to meet your household spending needs while also adhering to your target tax bracket. This isn’t something you’d map out more than one year in advance. Instead, it’s an exercise you’d repeat at the beginning of each year, using that year’s numbers. What might this look like in practice? Suppose you’re age 65, retired and not yet collecting Social Security. In this case, your income—and thus your tax bracket—might be quite low. To get started, you’d want to withdraw enough from your tax-deferred accounts to meet your spending needs but without exceeding your target tax bracket. This would then bring you to a decision. If you’ve taken enough out of your tax-deferred accounts to meet your spending needs and still haven’t hit your target tax rate, then the next step would be to distribute an additional amount from your pre-tax accounts. But with this additional amount, you’d complete a Roth conversion, moving those dollars into a Roth IRA to grow tax-free from that point forward. How much should you convert? The answer here involves a little bit of judgment but is mostly straightforward: You’d convert just enough to bring your marginal tax bracket up into the target range. Some people prefer to go all the way to the top of their target bracket, while others prefer to back off a bit. The most important thing is just to get into the right neighborhood. What if, on the other hand, you’ve taken enough from your pre-tax accounts to reach your target tax rate, but that still isn’t enough to meet your spending needs? In that case, you wouldn’t take any more from your pre-tax accounts, and you wouldn’t complete any Roth conversions. Instead, you’d turn to your taxable accounts, where the applicable tax brackets will almost certainly be lower. Capital gains brackets currently top out at just 20%. Thus, for the remainder of your spending needs, the most tax-efficient source of funds will be your taxable account. What if you aren’t yet age 59½? Would that upend a plan like this? A common misconception is that withdrawals from pre-tax accounts entail a punitive 10% penalty. While that’s true, it isn’t always true, and there’s more than one way around it. One exception allows withdrawals from a workplace retirement plan like a 401(k) as long as you leave that employer at age 55 or later. In that case, as long as you don’t roll over the account to an IRA, you’d be free to take withdrawals without penalty. If you’re retiring before age 55, you’ll want to learn about Rule 72(t). This allows for withdrawals from pre-tax accounts at any age, as long as you agree to what the IRS refers to as substantially equal periodic payments (SEPP) from your pre-tax assets. The SEPP approach definitely carries restrictions, but if you’re pursuing early retirement, and the bulk of your assets are in pre-tax accounts, this might be just the right solution.   Adam M. Grossman is the founder of Mayport, a fixed-fee wealth management firm. Sign up for Adam's Daily Ideas email, follow him on X @AdamMGrossman and check out his earlier articles.
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Manifesto

NO. 53: STRIVING toward our goals is usually more satisfying than achieving them. Yes, we should think hard about our goals—but we should also ask whether we’ll enjoy the journey.

Truths

NO. 96: IF YOU HAVE children, you will retire later. The all-in cost of raising kids through age 18 can run to hundreds of thousands of dollars, with college costs and financial help to adult children on top of that. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t have kids. But there’s a financial tradeoff involved—and one result of having children is you’ll likely retire later.

think

FOCUSING ILLUSION. Those with high incomes or significant wealth are more likely to say they’re happy. But this could be a focusing illusion. When asked about their happiness, the well-to-do ponder their good fortune—and that prompts them to say they’re happy. But are they? Research also suggests high-income earners suffer more stress and anger during the day.

Truths

NO. 18: WATCH OUT for crowds. Popularity is typically a good sign when picking a movie, cellphone or restaurant. But it’s bad when selecting investments. If an investment is highly popular, the eager buying likely means it's overpriced. Why do we favor popular investments? They’re comfortable to own because we get validation from those around us.

Best of Jonathan Clements

Manifesto

NO. 53: STRIVING toward our goals is usually more satisfying than achieving them. Yes, we should think hard about our goals—but we should also ask whether we’ll enjoy the journey.

Spotlight: Abuse

Checking on You

WE’VE ALL HEARD of the three credit bureaus, Equifax, Experian and TransUnion, which compile our all-important credit reports. But have you heard of ChexSystems?
ChexSystems generates reports on bank customers, typically using banking history from the past five years to assess the risk that customers pose to their banks. Those risks are reflected in blemishes on a consumer’s banking history, such as overdrafts and unpaid fees. In some instances, ChexSystems warns banks about potential fraud.

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Beefing Up Security

MANY OF US HAVE little more than a weak, reused password standing between our financial assets and a remote attacker—one armed with powerful tools and a database of passwords from security breaches. This is a losing battle. It’s the most likely way for weak computer security to put our finances at risk.
Think this can’t happen to you? I’ll bet you have at least one password taken in a big security breach. A quick way to find out is entering your email address at Troy Hunt’s HaveIBeenPwned site.

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A Simple Way to Avoid Phone Scams

I just read about an excellent script to use when one gets a call purporting to be from a financial institution that is, “every time a financial institution calls: “Where are you calling from? Thank you. I’m going to hang up and call back.”
Then go find the institution’s phone number (from a statement, the back of the credit card, or by typing in the URL of the website itself and finding it on the website;

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Three Risks

ON DEC. 17, 2002, Harry Markopolos walked out of his Boston office wearing an oversized trench coat and a pair of white cotton gloves. His destination: the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library. 
A quiet figure, Markopolos worked as the chief investment officer at a small firm that specialized in trading stock options. He had heard about a New York-based competitor that was apparently doing similar work, but with much greater success. Following his boss’s recommendation,

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Who Do You Trust?

MORE THAN 92,000 people over age 60 reported losses to fraud totaling $1.7 billion in 2021, according to the FBI’s Internet Crime Complaint Center. That represented a 74% increase in losses from the year before.
With the population of older Americans growing, the need to protect this vulnerable population is more critical than ever. Enter the concept of a trusted contact.
The trusted contact has its origin in a Financial Industry Regulatory Authority (FINRA) rule issued in March 2020.

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Bad Guy on Line One

GOOD PARENTS WARN their children about predators who look to take advantage of them. By the same token, good adults should warn and safeguard their elderly parents, as well as the other seniors they care for.
We all use our electronics for accessing information. We sometimes forget the information highway is two-way, and nefarious people use those lines of communication to get to the vulnerable. And it isn’t just about hacking online accounts. Often,

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Spotlight: Rohleder

Walking Away

IN PROFESSIONAL sports, superlatives are often overdone. Even the GOAT designation—greatest of all time—is sometimes applied prematurely. But love him or hate him, Tom Brady is arguably the GOAT among NFL quarterbacks and perhaps among all NFL players. For proof, look no further than his collection of record-breaking statistics, Super Bowl rings and most valuable player awards. Could it be that he has added another GOAT designation with his epic fail at retirement? Brady reversed his retirement announcement from the Tampa Bay Buccaneers after just 40 days. What did he figure out in those 40 days that changed his plans? The Bureau of Labor Statistics says the median NFL player career is six years. Brady has played for 22. Didn’t he know that retirement was coming? Maybe it’s a matter of finances. Despite earning in a few years what most people earn in a lifetime, an unfortunate number of NFL players file bankruptcy after their football days are over. Tom and his wife Gisele reportedly have $26 million worth of homes in various states. Perhaps they neglected to factor the mortgage payments into their retirement plan. Maybe they miscalculated how much early retirees pay for health coverage. Perhaps they forgot to fund 529 plans for the kids’ college. Still, with a reported individual net worth of $250 million, coupled with his wife’s $400 million, I’m guessing Brady doesn’t need the paycheck. In a HumbleDollar article last October, Mike Drak described “failing” retirement because he didn’t recognize in advance what retirement would mean for his identity and sense of purpose. For Brady, maybe we shouldn’t discount the feeling that comes with having millions of fans scream his name at every snap. Brady’s stated reason for reversing his retirement decision was “unfinished business.” The fans take this to mean he wants another Super Bowl win. This speaks to Brady finding his life’s purpose in his work. He reportedly has other business interests and could readily step into a variety of post-NFL careers. We have to presume that, even at age 44, none of these other career options has the appeal or the competitive juice Brady finds in throwing the football to players half his age. With any job, there’s always unfinished business. The question is whether you can walk away from it. If you were hit by a bus, chances are the business would continue without you. Will the NFL struggle to survive without Brady on the field? It’s doubtful. Regardless of your work, there’s something to be said for going out at the top of your game. Being originally from Detroit, I remember running back Barry Sanders, a near GOAT, who walked away from the game in his prime. Tom Brady probably still has it. But it would be unfortunate if he plays so long that he ends up tarnishing his brilliant career.
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Make Them Good Years

MANY YEARS AGO, a Wall Street Journal article quoted a source as saying, and I paraphrase, “Young-old age should last as long as possible, while old-old age should last 15 minutes.” Those of us who have visited nursing homes can all relate to this. Public health initiatives and medical breakthroughs have extended lifespans significantly over the past 100 years. In his bestselling book Outlive: The Science and Art of Longevity, Peter Attia argues that we should focus not just on lifespan, but also on healthspan. The latter is a measure of how well we live, not necessarily how long.  Attia emphasizes that “longer lifespan with no improvement in healthspan is a curse, not a blessing.” His goal is to increase people’s healthspan so that they maximize their chances of avoiding chronic disease, thereby reducing the portion of their lives that they spend frail and infirm.  Attia believes that healthspan is about preserving these three elements of life for as long as possible: Brain: How long you can preserve cognition. Body: How long you can maintain muscle mass, functional movement, and strength, balance, flexibility and freedom from pain. Spirit: How robust is your social support network, as well as your happiness, mental health and sense of purpose. As an expert in longevity and preventive medicine, Attia has researched the ways we can achieve greater healthspan. He identifies four chronic conditions that have emerged in the developed world as the greatest contributors to reduced healthspan. His “four horsemen of the Apocalypse” are: Atherosclerotic disease. This includes cardiovascular disease and cerebrovascular disease. Cancer of all types. Neurodegenerative disease, including Alzheimer’s disease, Parkinson’s disease and various types of dementia. Metabolic dysfunction. This is a spectrum of everything from hyperinsulinemia to insulin resistance to fatty liver disease to Type 2 diabetes. These four diseases account for more than 80% of deaths among those over age 50 who don’t smoke. Reducing their toll is a primary focus of Attia’s work. Much needs to be done. Western medicine seems more focused on curing disease than preventing it. As an example, Attia cites how our medical system has evolved in the treatment of Type 2 diabetes. A person approaching middle age might see his blood sugar rise over time. At some point, the patient is defined as pre-diabetic and later diabetic. No good comes from being diabetic—it’s a risk factor for all four horsemen. Once the patient has a diagnosis of diabetes, the medical system intervenes, potentially spending thousands of dollars. Yet, for years, the patient was marching steadily toward this point, and prevention could have averted both the physical and financial costs. The book traces the evolution of medicine. Medicine 1.0 is how disease was treated up to the mid-1800s. This medicine had no foundation in science. Rather, it was based on “direct observation and abetted more or less by pure guesswork.” Medicine 2.0, the current industry practice, waits until someone has become sick before initiating treatment. Modern medicine has a phenomenal ability to diagnose and treat complex diseases and respond to medical crises. It’s adept at dealing with trauma and infection. Attia believes that what he terms Medicine 3.0 should focus on identifying negative trends early so we can zero in on prevention. In the diabetes example, early intervention might prevent the disease entirely before it can cause irreparable damage. There is much evidence—and also much hype—around prevention. He says the greatest surprise in his research is the incredible power of exercise. When he began his dive into the evidence, he expected exercise to be important. What surprised him was how vital it is to our health. On the flipside, he found that many claims about nutrition are based on weak studies. No doubt, proper nutrition is important, and he identifies some clear dos and don’ts. But fad diets or the constant drip of headlines saying this or that is or isn’t good are just noise. The book can be read at two levels: How does this relate to me and how can I increase my healthspan? What does his research say about how the practice of medicine—and the insurance industry—should evolve, so we reach the next level of preventive care? We can always learn and improve our current lifestyle. I would have benefited from reading this book at age 40 rather than 65. Even so, reading it now, I see that my health goals track well with Attia’s recommendations. As a numbers person, I’ve always monitored my health measures: body mass index (BMI), blood pressure, cholesterol, glucose, triglycerides, and PSA, a measure of prostate health. If you don’t know your current state, it’s hard to map a path to improvement. I have also done well with aerobic fitness, but struggled with strength training. Goals for how you live after 65 can also be defined in terms of function. This can mean completing daily activities without becoming short of breath, being able to get down on the floor—and then back up again—to play with grandkids, and managing household chores and bills without assistance. If these are your goals, too, what you do in the 20 years before retirement can determine your success. Long ago, I identified that there’s a consistent theme in articles about disease prevention. For almost any chronic disease, the prescription starts the same: don’t smoke, maintain a normal BMI and blood pressure, exercise, minimize alcohol consumption, eat sensibly and get enough sleep. These universal principles are covered in great detail in the book. It’s never too late to start them. I was introduced to Attia’s thinking through a podcast that I was, coincidently, listening to at the gym. The book is 496 pages long and some parts went into greater detail than I was willing to absorb. I did make some changes in my approach to exercise as a result of reading it, however. As much as I don’t like it, I’ve upped my strength training at the gym. The book also encouraged me to continue refining my diet. Howard Rohleder, a former chief executive of a community hospital, retired early after more than 30 years in hospital administration. In retirement, he enjoys serving on several nonprofit boards, exploring walking paths with his wife Susan, and visiting their six grandchildren. A little-known fact: In May 1994, Howard was featured—along with five others—on the cover of Kiplinger’s Personal Finance for an article titled “Secrets of My Investment Success.” Check out his previous articles. [xyz-ihs snippet="Donate"]
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Grandpa’s Scholarship

WHAT SHOULD I DO with the required minimum distributions from my rollover IRAs? I’m age 65, which means that—under last year’s tax law—I must begin taking taxable distributions in 2030, the year I turn 73. I’ve been looking at my retirement cash flow, and it appears that my wife and I won’t need the money for our living expenses. I’m investigating using the money to help fund my grandkids’ college education. I built a spreadsheet that maps my age against the age of each grandchild and determined the years they’re expected to attend college. Using an online calculator, I estimated my required withdrawals and dropped those amounts in. Currently, the six grandkids range in age from two-year-old twins to 11. My thought is to pay substantially all the cost of their junior and senior years. The kids are evenly spaced. Other than the twins, no two will have upper-class standing in the same year. I have 529 college-savings accounts for each child. Based on my current contribution levels, those accounts could be exhausted in their freshman years. Fidelity Investments’ college planning tool suggests that the average public university might cost $28,000 a year by 2031, which is when our oldest grandchild would be a freshman. The average private school might cost $64,000 by then. These costs inflate to $35,000 and $80,000, respectively, by 2038, when the twins are projected to begin college. Of course, these costs are only averages and could vary sharply depending on the specific school the grandchildren attend. On top of that, Fidelity is inflating current college costs by just 2.5% a year, which may be too conservative. For comparison, I’ve looked at the current cost of attending the private colleges my two children attended, as well as public universities in the states where the grandchildren live. After inflating these costs and comparing them to Fidelity’s results, I decided to increase my 2031 college cost estimates to $42,000 a year for a public school and $81,000 for a private school. I plan to use my 2030 required minimum distributions to open an investment account to pay future college costs. By investing in money market funds, certificates of deposit or Treasury bills, I could earn some interest before making college payments. Based on my projections, I estimate that I could provide up to $80,000 toward college in 2031. This will fund roughly a year of private college tuition, room and board. I inflated this amount by 2.5% a year to estimate the future college costs for the younger grandchildren. Eleven years of after-tax required minimum withdrawals will generate enough to cover two years of college for each grandchild. After that, my withdrawals can be used to support my needs in late retirement. [xyz-ihs snippet="Mobile-Subscribe"] If the grandchildren attend public schools, any extra money in their last two years of college could be used to repay student loans generated in their first two years. Some of the grandchildren might also earn scholarships that reduce their need for my money. If so, I have no problem giving them the planned money to jumpstart graduate school or their post-graduate life. There’s always a chance that some of the grandchildren won’t attend college or won’t make it to their junior year. My wife and I are flexible. Funding trade school, an apprenticeship or starting a business are all acceptable uses. Our goal is to help launch each grandchild into the adult world with minimal student loans or other debt. We’ll also have to consider disqualifying circumstances. We don’t like thinking about it, but our grandchildren might make choices that would make it unwise to turn over the money as planned. I could see holding it for them to see if they turn things around. We’ve not shared these thoughts with our children. I’m honestly not sure providing $160,000 per grandchild is a good idea. I would welcome thoughts from HumbleDollar readers. But it is a comfort to know the money is available to help them. No plan is perfect, of course. Here are three uncertainties that might affect my strategy: My projections are based on earning 5% a year on my rollover IRAs. Actual returns could affect the amounts available. Changes in the tax law could change my required withdrawal amounts. Our living expenses could increase to the point that implementing this plan would compromise our standard of living. These risks don’t mean we must abandon the plan entirely, but they could change the amount we can pay toward college. Once we commit to the first grandchild, we’ll have to be prepared to fund the other five. With the spreadsheet built, I can monitor growth in my IRA balances, changes in college costs and changes in the tax law. All this will allow us to zero in on a specific plan when the oldest hits high school. Then we can share it with the whole family. Watch this space for an update around 2027. Howard Rohleder, a former chief executive of a community hospital, retired early after more than 30 years in hospital administration. In retirement, he enjoys serving on several nonprofit boards, exploring walking paths with his wife Susan, and visiting their six grandchildren. A little-known fact: In May 1994, Howard was featured—along with five others—on the cover of Kiplinger’s Personal Finance for an article titled “Secrets of My Investment Success.” Check out his previous articles. [xyz-ihs snippet="Donate"]
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Valuing My Income

READER COMMENTS on one of my blog posts prompted me to dig deeper into my thinking about asset allocation. A trip to the HumbleDollar archive led me to a Charley Ellis article where he emphasized that readers should incorporate Social Security, pensions and annuity payments into any analysis of their asset allocation and portfolio risk. A guaranteed stream of income is clearly valuable. I knew this, but I had missed the obvious conclusion—that the net present value (NPV) of these income streams should be considered part of a portfolio. Specifically, they’re bond substitutes but without the interest rate risk of true bonds. I used the NPV function in Excel to value the three income streams I’m due, so I could then evaluate each as part of my portfolio’s asset allocation. This required some assumptions: When will I begin Social Security? I decided to use my full Social Security retirement age, with benefit values based on my current statement, which I downloaded from the Social Security website. I factored in my wife’s spousal benefit at 50% of my benefit. Since my start date for Social Security is in the future, the NPV calculation had to account for a few years with no payments. For future cost-of-living adjustments for Social Security, I used the average for the past 10 years, which was 1.88% per year. Given current inflation, that may prove conservative. The other two income streams I’m due are a pension and an income annuity. One has started and the other will start later this year. Both are fixed amounts, so there was no need to estimate annual inflation increases. For all three income streams, I had to assume how long my wife and I would collect. For this I went to the IRS joint life expectancy tables and, based on our ages, arrived at 28 years. The final input was the discount rate. Ultimately, I decided to use 3%, recognizing that anywhere from 2% to 5% might be justified in today’s environment. I did want to acknowledge some credit risk implicit in pensions and income annuities, which justifies a small premium above the risk-free Treasury rate. By building this model in Excel, it was easy to see the impact of changes in assumptions. What if we both live to 100? What is the impact of a 5% discount rate versus 3%? What if Social Security cost-of-living adjustments average 3% instead of 1.88%? I was also able to model the difference if I opt to defer Social Security until age 70. Incorporating the three present value calculations into my portfolio added 25% to its worth. Treating them as bond substitutes led to a key conclusion: I could move considerable bond and cash investments into stocks, and still sleep at night. This is a reversal of the quandary I discussed in my earlier blog post. One revelation: Because my three income streams aren’t subject to interest rate risk in the same way an investment in bonds would be, I already enjoy downside portfolio protection, and don’t need to shift money into bonds at a time when interest rates may rise. At the same time, this exercise highlighted how the cushion provided by regular income payments can help my wife and me weather a big stock market decline.
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The Number

WHEN I WAS IN MY early 30s, I decided to determine “the number.” What would be enough money to allow me to retire, and what was the path to get there? Personal computers were newly available, so I decided to work this out in Lotus 1-2-3. There was no internet to speak of. Investment companies didn’t have online calculators running Monte Carlo simulations that incorporated hundreds of possible retirement outcomes and spat out a most-likely scenario with a 95% confidence level. Instead, I developed my own rudimentary retirement planner, starting with the premise that my wife and I could live comfortably on $50,000 a year in 1991 dollars. I made several assumptions. Some would, today, make a financial planner cringe: Inflate my $50,000 target income by 8% annually. Keep my savings goal separate from any Social Security or pension income, which I’d treat as cushions. Earn 10% a year on my investments. Withdraw 8% annually in retirement. Increase my retirement plan contributions by 5% a year. I created the spreadsheet and used my investment balance as a base. I plugged in my assumptions and ran it out to age 85. It showed I could achieve my goal, which was to retire in my mid-50s. Compared to the online calculators available today, it wasn’t very sophisticated. Regardless of how “the number” is calculated, however, putting a plan in black and white provided me with some savings discipline. It allowed me to know: My long-term goal. My original calculation said “the number” was just under $1.7 million. A path to get there. I saw that the steps to reach the goal were readily achievable. A way to assess my progress annually. In the years when the market dropped, I didn’t hit my target. But I learned that the up years made up for the down years. There was something about going through this thought process and creating the spreadsheet that solidified my thinking. Each year, I diligently compared my actual investment totals to my target. As time went by, I updated the spreadsheet with new assumptions. I brought down my withdrawal rate and assumed investment return to more reasonable levels. I increased my savings contributions faster than anticipated. I also extended the planning horizon to age 100. And, yes, when they became available, I used online calculators to validate my plan. I recently found a 1995 copy of my one-page plan printed by a dot-matrix printer. It said I would meet my goal by 2012—the year I did actually retire.
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Taxing Situations

As an AARP volunteer Tax Aide for a second tax season, I completed about 100 returns and reviewed many others prepared by other volunteers. I volunteer two days a week from February 1 to April 14 at two different senior centers and continue to make observations based my clients’ tax situations. The Tax Aide program is free and not limited to seniors or AARP members. Even though most clients are retired seniors, we can serve all ages and incomes. Only more complex returns are out of scope. It is not unusual to be helping someone whose spouse has recently passed away. I had a couple of situations where the death was in 2023 which had allowed them to continue to file “married filing jointly” last year. As I prepared the 2024 return, they were hit with the implications of now filing “single.” Their standard deduction is essentially cut in half. If their income and withholding stayed the same, this meant a big tax bill. This led to difficult conversations where I explained that: 1) they had to come up with the money to pay this year’s taxes; 2) they were potentially on the hook for penalties associated with under withholding because they owed more than $1000; and 3) they had to consider increasing withholding for the current year to avoid a penalty next year. As many of our clients have low incomes, these prospects were daunting. If I saw someone where the spouse died in 2024, I was able to counsel them to increase their withholding now so they did not get caught short next year. I saw a smattering of W-2G forms. These represent gambling winnings, usually from one of our local casinos. Not surprisingly, the state and city have taken their cut and this is disclosed on the W-2G. A friendly single man nearing retirement brought in a W-2G showing about $1,600 in slot machine winnings. I congratulated him on his luck. I did the return and then the reviewer and I got to talking to him about whether he had any offsetting losses. In the end, he made a quick trip to the casino and obtained a report for the year based on his membership card. His losses for the year from playing the slots were $15,000. He had no idea. I was thinking about his situation as I was driving home that day. I would never do what he is doing… I have actually never been inside a casino. On the other hand, he was single. He had a well-paid government job for which he had a significant portion of his pay directed to his pension plan. Gambling presumably represented his preferred entertainment. If he went to the casino to play the slots a couple of times a week, who am I to say that was wrong? In the end, we could not deduct the losses… and he had to pay taxes on the $1,600. After seeing the whole picture, I was less inclined to think he was lucky. One lady came to me who had not used our service before. She had been widowed a few years ago and was anxious about sharing her information with a stranger because she and her late husband had used the same small local accounting firm to do their taxes for the last 40 years. She knew them and trusted them. She handed me last year’s return in a nicely bound booklet and pointed out the reason she came to us: the invoice tucked in the back was $360. A friend at church sent her to us. It was one of the simplest returns I did all year since all she had was social security, a pension and a few dollars in bank interest. She went away happy because she would keep this year’s refund instead of paying most of it to the accountant. We have a fair number of clients who owe zero tax on either their federal or state return. Some tell me that a friend told them that they don’t need to file anymore. While technically correct, we are taught to counsel them that filing prevents someone appropriating their social security number and filing to scam the system. More so this year than last, I am seeing clients come in with IP PIN numbers. These are six-digit numbers provided annually by the IRS to tax payers who request this identity protection. Think of it as similar to the multi-factor authentication numbers online accounts text to you. The only difference is that for victims of tax identity fraud, these are mailed to the taxpayer near the end of the calendar year. Note that these numbers are different from the PIN you are asked to put in if you e-file. One morning two out of the first three clients had IP PINs because their social security number had been compromised with a fraudulent tax filing. One man in his mid-eighties told me that his daughter had to spend hours on the phone with the IRS straightening out the fraud. He said he would never have been able to work through it without her. You don’t have to wait until your identity is stolen to get an IP PIN. The only catch is that if you proactively apply, they don’t mail you the IP PIN… you have to sign on to your IRS account each year to get it. I’ve decided to apply for one for myself…preemptively protecting my identity. I readily repeat my observation from last year: this is challenging and sometimes frustrating work. It is also interesting and rewarding. Assuming each of my clients would have paid $360 to have a paid preparer do their taxes, I put $36,000 in the pockets of people who need it for their daily expenses. Multiply that by 28,000 tax aide volunteers across the country. Not bad.
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